21Oct – Antwerp, Belgium

As I learned years ago when visiting Brussels and Bruges, Belgium cities are almost defined by their Grote Market, or market squares. Once the home of the wealthy, they are lined with incredible former residences that all reach to the sky with decorative pinnacles and stepped peaks. Antwerp is no different.

Antwerp’s Cathedral tower dominates the old town. It can seen from almost any street or alley. If not, turn a corner. There it is.

Julia took us to a little hidden residential street–it actually has closable doors at both ends–as we made our way to the Grote Markt and cathedral square.

While it costs 12 or more euros to enter the Cathedral and see the Peter Paul Ruben’s works within, Julia took us to another incredibly beautiful church, the Church of St. Charles Borromeo, where there is a Peter Paul Rueben’s painting, The Return of the Holy Family available for viewing…with no admission.

Here’s a couple of “fun” facts about this church building. First, it was originally built by the Jesuits and was the first church building in the world dedicated to St. Ignatius Loyola, the order’s founder. Second, the church originally had 39 ceiling pieces by Rubens that were lost in a 1718 fire. The return of Ruben’s painting to the church after a 240 year absence quite fitting.

And the church is a feast for the eyes in other ways as well. Both nave walls are lined with intricate wood carved panels, some of which are shown below. In fact, there are outstanding examples of woodcraft throughout the church. Another example that can be glimpsed in the alter photo is the carved pulpit on the right. Julia also mentioned that this is the only church she know where they actually rotate the giant painting behind the main altar, replacing it at least once a liturgical year. And, for the first time in over 400 years, there is a contemporary work of art in a side chapel: an oversized metal figure of a naked man caught midway in the act of falling backwards in what we would call a trust fall today.

Random views of Antwerp from our walking tour

After we returned to the ship, we had need of an ATM machine. While running this errand, we caught a couple of architectural highlights…plus had a little fun at the expense of a former Antwerp politico.

And being the last night aboard, it was the Captain’s Farewell Dinner. An amuse bouche led off the final feast turf and turf: beef sirloin and prawn (read: shrimp). The grand finale was the cruise ship tradition of a Baked Alaska parade around the dining room illuminated with sparklers and mini Roman candles. (Again, one of the first rules of the sea:no open flames on a ship!) The sirloin was done to perfection, juicy and easily sliced. The prawn was just that: one prawn. But ii was moist and not overcooked to toughness if lonely. And the Alaskan was the best of many we’ve had at sea: thinly sliced with the perfect proportion of cake to ice cream with the chocolate and/or raspberry sauce the perfect compliment.

I have to say that I am really looking forward to returning to a life not run by a dining schedule! Really.